First stop: Marrakech!
We stayed in this amazingly cozy Riad called Riad Marrakech Rouge near the the main square, Jemaa El-Fna, which is run by this warm, incredibly friendly English-Moroccan couple, Fran and Abdullah. There was a problem with the reservation and they managed to fit all 8 of us into a tiny room! It was nicknamed "the harem," hah!
Our days usually started with spiced coffee, bread, butter and jam. Then we'd head over to the square to get some fresh orange juice (this stuff is unbelievable. I can't even describe why), and inevitably get lost in the souks on the way to a museum or a palace. We ate like kings for the equivalent of 4 Euro. Rich couscous, succulent lamb tagines, and risky but delicous street food!
We then walked around the souks, bartering with people for scarves, hand-made leather shoes, or sunglasses. We went to two palaces, the first university open to women in Morocco, and Jardin Majorelle (designed by Yves Saint Laurent).
And then there were the hammams. Oh the glorious hammams. It was literally a rebirth. First of all, no one speaks french in there, so it's really hard to communicate, but the old women gesture for you to remove your clothes, take some buckets, and follow them into the baths. Then they scrub you down with savon noire (a blend of eucalyptus, argan oil, and other herbs) until all the dead skin flakes off and you're entire body is as soft as a baby's bottom!
As I appreciated later, Marrakech is extremely progressive in terms of behavior towards women. I was able to walk around in a tank top by myself and not feel threatened or like I was being too culturally insensitive.
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