On the Road and In The Desert

Part II: On the Road and the Sahara Desert

After three days in Marrakech, we were ready for the desert. The Sahara, that is. We arranged a three day excursion through our Riad (again, Fran and Abdullah were wonderfully and unexpectedly accomodating what with our last minute planning).
The first day was all driving. We stopped at a Casbah -- a kingdom or walled town of sorts, but otherwise it was pretty much all driving through Moroccan towns and sheep herds. We stopped at a very nice hotel by a stream of water in a mountainous area. I'm sad to say I don't know where most places we stopped actually were because we didn't have a map and the driver was very difficult to communicate with.
The next day was more driving, but we stopped in a gorge (I think), and then finally we were at the Sahara! At sunset, we took camels with a couple other tourists about an hour and a half (at walking pace) into the dunes. The berbers who hosted us were friendly and hilarious. We were shown to some tents, equipped with single mattresses and heavy blankets. We then gathered around communal tables lit only with candlelight. After becoming fully acquainted with several of our company, the berbers served us some pretty succulent chicken couscous. After, there was a bonfire of sorts with song, dance, and drums! They regaled us with their traditional music, and we reciprocated in kind with Young Money, Lady Gaga, and Creed.
After all the merriment had died down, we decided to embark on something incredibly stupid and exciting: climb the sand dune and sleep at the top. The berbers laughed us. "You can't sleep at the top. It's a sharp edge. It is this side of the dune then that side of the dune. Nothing else at top." But we just thought, silly berbers. And so we went with a mattress in one hand and blanket in the other.
It was silly. That dune was at least 50 feet high. And if you thought running in sand was difficult, try climbing with a mattress and a blanket (heavy one). Some of us gave up half way. Some threw up from exertion. And some did make it to the top. But the berbers were indeed correct. At the top was nothing but an edge.






(Note: The light writing is "stop" in Arabic)

Spring Break Part II: Marrakech, Morocco

First stop: Marrakech!
We stayed in this amazingly cozy Riad called Riad Marrakech Rouge near the the main square, Jemaa El-Fna, which is run by this warm, incredibly friendly English-Moroccan couple, Fran and Abdullah. There was a problem with the reservation and they managed to fit all 8 of us into a tiny room! It was nicknamed "the harem," hah!
Our days usually started with spiced coffee, bread, butter and jam. Then we'd head over to the square to get some fresh orange juice (this stuff is unbelievable. I can't even describe why), and inevitably get lost in the souks on the way to a museum or a palace. We ate like kings for the equivalent of 4 Euro. Rich couscous, succulent lamb tagines, and risky but delicous street food!
We then walked around the souks, bartering with people for scarves, hand-made leather shoes, or sunglasses. We went to two palaces, the first university open to women in Morocco, and Jardin Majorelle (designed by Yves Saint Laurent).
And then there were the hammams. Oh the glorious hammams. It was literally a rebirth. First of all, no one speaks french in there, so it's really hard to communicate, but the old women gesture for you to remove your clothes, take some buckets, and follow them into the baths. Then they scrub you down with savon noire (a blend of eucalyptus, argan oil, and other herbs) until all the dead skin flakes off and you're entire body is as soft as a baby's bottom!
As I appreciated later, Marrakech is extremely progressive in terms of behavior towards women. I was able to walk around in a tank top by myself and not feel threatened or like I was being too culturally insensitive.

Spring Break Part I: Espana

Spain was wonderful for several reasons. First, it was much, MUCH cheaper than Paris. Second, it was sunny. Third, the culture was so friendly and chilled-out (siestas...duh).

In Madrid, we stayed at Hostel Bahia Madrid, which was right near Plaza del Sol -- right smack in the middle of the city. I've got to say, it had a lot of character. And by "it," I mean the senora who ran the place. She was an interesting person to put it nicely. But, anyway. We went to the Prado, Reina Sofia, and explored the giant botanical garden. We also found out that our concept of the Spanish schedule was completely off. The whole eating reallllly late, like 11 o'clock late, was not true. Places started closing when we wanted to go out, and it was surprisingly difficult to find bars open during the week. I'm convinced we were just not going out in the right places. We did do a tapas night, though, which was very tasty.

Barcelona was another story. I've been to both Madrid and Barcelona before, and I always remember that I like Barcelona better than Madrid for some reason. Barcelona is often advertised as "young people" city with lots of nightlife and progressive culture. This is pretty accurate. First of all, our housing experience was completely different. We found a very nice, very well-equipped apartment near the arc de triompf (yes, it seems every major city has one of these) for 6 people for a little bit less than our "just okay" hostel in Madrid. Amazing! The city itself just has so much character. The weather was beautiful, so we walked everywhere, went to visit Park Guell of course, and found ourselves at a heavy metal bar with random chippendales one night.

Breakfast in America

Breakfast in America

4 Rue Mahler

Metro: Saint Paul

Comments: Well worth the wait. 7.95 Euro for a 2 eggs any style, toast, bacon/sausage, home fries!

Tartes Kluger and More

Once again, Sam Toh found a delicious place to go for lunch. Tartes Kluger only does tarts (more like quiches). They more three types everyday and you can order a generous slice with salad and soup for 10 euros. I had chicken and ratatouille with vegetable soup. Yum!

Tartes Kluger

6 Rue du Forez

Metro: Temple or Filles du Calvaire

Other places, tried and true:

Le 138

140 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine

Metro: Ledru-Rollin

Comments: amazing coffee drinks and desserts, very kitschy theatre like ambiance, reasonably priced, fun to go and read a book or study

Café du Temple

160 Bis Rue du Temple

Metro: Temple

Comments: This placed is decked out Marilyn Monroe, mardi gras beads, and leopard decor, there's almost a diner feel here; espressos even come in marilyn monroe garb and madeleines!

Cafe Chinois

7 Rue de Bearn

Metro: Chemin Vert

Comments: very zen atmosphere, great tea and vietnamese coffee, a little on the pricey side if you go by yourself, but sharing a pot of tea is pretty economic

Le Cordonnerie

28 rue Greneta

Metro: Réaumer-Sebastopol

Comments: Very bustling place, free couscous on saturday nights!

Happy Nouilles

95 Rue Beaubourg

Metro: Arts et Metiers

Comments: BEST noodles in paris and cheap, too!

Dishny

25 Rue Cail

Metro: Gare du Nord or La Chapelle

Comments: Great Indian food right in the heart of Paris's "Little India", 9 euro dinner menu includes samosa, chicken/beef/fish/veggie korma, and dessert

Places I Want to Try:

Patisserie Lenotre

44 rue d'Auteuil

Metro: Michel-Ange Auteuil

Expectations: Apparently they have amazing tarte tatin!

Bambou

70 Rue Baudricourt

Metro: Tolbiac

Expectations: Pho!

La Queue de Boeuf

70 rue Rébéval

Metro: Belleville ou Pyrenées

Expectations: Lyonnaise cuisine, warm environment

Les Fils de Maman

7 bis rue geoffroy Mari

Metro: Grands Boulevards

Expectations: Cheeseburger and tarte au toblerone!

AND MORE!

Art is Paris

One of my favorite photographers, Elliot Erwitt, was being featured at Musée Européene de la Photographie in the Marais. He does wonderful stuff with juxtaposition. See below.

"Dogs are basically people with more hair." - Elliot Erwitt

Balloon art that I found on Rue Saint-Martin not too far from Centre Pompidou

A couple of us were invited to the Art Paris! Exhibition opening where modern and contemporary art galleries from all over paris show their works in this huge space.